PenmanFest - otherwise known as the Helen World Tour [2]

Read the latest from Helen Hardegen's travels...

Week Two Part 1

27 August

I woke up just before 7am and packed up ready for a long driving day.

I thought I should try to cut down a bit from the previous day and so just ordered scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, mushrooms and tomatoes for breakfast. I suspect it wasn't Tasmanian salmon. But it was an absolutely delightful start to the day.

Goodbyes were said to Don and Pam with my thanks for their hospitality. (Remember Milburn House if anyone else is going to Kirkcudbright.) My driving instructions from AA led me first to New Galloway along a very foresty road. There were loads of hedges on the road verges which was good driving practice for me - different to the cleared verges I'm used to.

I saw some birds on the road, maybe young pheasants but have no bird book to look up. I'm sure there will be one at Judith and Alan's though.

Then it was back into the car and continuing the drive up along the shores of Loch Lomond. What a beautiful place to put a road, even a windy, windy one like this.

I made it to Oban by just after 2pm - plenty of time till the 4pm ferry. I met up with Judith while she was shopping in Oban and had a hot chocolate with her while we made plans. The best plan was to take the car on the ferry to Mull, then I was free to leave by the other Fishnish/Lochaline ferry and head straight up to Kyle of Lochalsh on Thursday.

Driving onto the ferry was easier than I expected and we sailed off into the mist - couldn't see Mull at all but Judith assured me it was there.

Alan & Judith's house is gorgeous. They have two Siamese cats, Gina and Karla. Karla loves to sit on people and made herself at home on my black trousers. Both are very sociable cats.

I also met three of the grandchildren - Louise, Joanna and Rosie, the youngest, who is in the photo of the house. They are lovely girls. I had a long chat with Nana Wilson, catching up on all the years since I last saw her in 1995 then went for a twilight drive to Grasspoint looking for hedgehogs but none around.

I managed to get online with Telstra card using Vodaphone. BT won't work here.

From the window of Judith's house I saw a red deer which came nearly up to the house fence. (The house fence is a very high wire one designed to be deer proof.) Lochdon has views out across a sea loch. The air was perfectly still and there was hardly a ripple on the water. It was much clearer on Mull than it had seemed from the ferry.

28 August

After breakfast Judith took me on a driving tour of almost the whole island. We started with Lachlan Macquarie's Mausoleum (governor of NSW form 1809), followed the coast around to the north west and saw some terrific scenery. Both blackfaced sheep and highland cows met us on the road. It is strange that they are not fenced from the roads. It was overcast but there was not much rain about.

We stopped in at Dervaig to see where Judith's daughter Clare is building a house, then we went to Tobermoray where I bought a toy owl and an owl bookmark.

Home for lunch then it was Alan's turn to be tour director and we went off to see their standing stone circle at Lochbuie. We had to walk across a boggy paddock (in borrowed boots from Judith) then it started to drizzle so we got a bit damp. It made me feel all Scottish to be getting wet at a standing stone circle. My shower jacket worked well! It hadn't been tested till now.

I had arranged to chat at 3pm with Pifflers and also managed to get hold of Andrew so I could chat with him. Keith was working late so wasn't home.

Now I'm sitting in front of a fire in the living room catching up on my journal with Karla on my lap.

Judith made a traditional Scots dinner for me - neeps (sp?), taties, haggis and mince - very yummy too. My second time of trying haggis much to their surprise. I had some at a Highland Games in Perth, Aust a couple of years back.

Then I joined in the ritual watching of Coronation Street, rather bemused by it and with two cats on my lap by this stage. After I had a nice reminiscing time with Nana Wilson who embarrassingly has a photo of me at about age 16 with her grandson. The beach at Rottnest looks the same still, I look totally different (I hope!)

Off to sleep after reading a few pages of 'Moving Toyshop' where the poor man gets stranded in Didcot.

29 August

I was up, packed and breakfasted in good time to catch the 9.20am ferry from Fishnish. Alan's marmalade is excellent.

Judith saw me off at the car ferry - my time on Mull felt so much like a family visit, especially as Judith made me a packed lunch of smoked salmon and cream cheese sandwiches. I hope I don't get tired of smoked salmon before I get to LA - as if!!!

Another long driving day but through the most glorious country. Fishnish ferry to Lochaline then a lovely drive to the Corran Ferry, mostly on single track road, but I'm getting good at that after some practice on Mull. I had a flock of sheep to contend with at one point and then some red deer decided to jump across the road in front of me - little antler-free ones. I thought they were kangaroos hopping across for a moment.

Up to Fort William, stopping for petrol as I wasn't sure just how remote I was going. The road continued along the edge of the loch to Invergarry then I turned onto the western road out toward Kyle of Lochalsh and the bridge to Skye.

I stopped several times to take photos, eat sandwiches, and even bought an icecream at Balmacara. The weather was pretty good with occasional showers.

I've made plans to meet Val on Saturday at Glenkindie. And also have some phone numbers to call in the morning for B&B's in Inverness. I hope the weather is nice and clear.

Once again I can't log on with BT. But Vodaphone managed a connection for a short time before dropping out. I wish I could transport the Australian telephone/internet system with me.

Week 2 Part 2

30 August

The real Scottish summer weather decided to arrive today. It was raining when I looked out of my window when I woke up and continued.

For breakfast I had bacon, eggs, tomatoes, mushrooms and my first chance to try black pudding - not bad, a bit too peppery for me. Maybe others are different.

I set off for Inverness taking the long way around the white and red road rather than the big green one on the map. The route took me through some cute single track roads via Strome Ferry (which doesn't have a ferry). It was all very pretty as usual - oh dear! I'm getting used to this spectacular scenery!

Into Jamie Fraser territory now so I stopped at Beauly to take photos of the ruined Abbey in the rain. I also checked out the local tourist museum which has a special Clan Fraser room. I wonder how much benefit Diana Gabaldon has brought to the Beauly economy? I sat in the car for a while, taking a rest from driving and writing a few cards before posting them at the little Beauly Post Office - still raining! My Underground map umbrella is working well but feels just a little out of place.

I drove on to Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness. Free entry again with my GBH pass otherwise 5 pounds - I think I will make a success from the pass. Urquhart is a lovely place to visit - touristy but they make an effort to keep the shop/restaurant away from the castle proper. Not a lot of people around which was nice - I wonder why? Still raining!

A reconstructed trebuchet in the grounds of Urquhart Castle looks impressive. Maybe it is the one built on that TV program last year?

A piper playing in the ruined gatehouse set the scene dramatically as did the low cloud/high mist over the grey loch - still raining!

On to Inverness which is much bigger than I expected and tricky to drive through without a city map. I was heading for the sign to short stay parking when I missed the turn off and ended up on Crown Drive, a nice hill near the city centre. There was a B&B sign with parking so I stopped, knocked, vacancy yes, perfect.

I gathered a street map from Mrs Hogg, the B&B owner and headed out to Culloden Moor for the afternoon - where else would one want to be when it is raining? At least the rain felt appropriate at Culloden. I didn't feel that it was a spooky place like some people do, more sad but peaceful and very damp! My shoes got soaked but my rain jacket and umbrella kept the worst off. The heather looked brilliant when wet. It got colder and my wet hands were icy.

My digital camera decided to announce that it was full - I didn' t think I'd taken many photos in the last couple of days but it downloaded 83 shots later.

I drove out to see where Cawdor Castle is in case I decide to go there in the morning before heading to Aviemore, then I came back into Inverness, fighting with Friday evening traffic on the way. I think I'm getting used to how the roads work.

After downloading the camera and sorting out some emails, I headed off to find a warm, dry place for dinner after changing my shoes. A pub with chicken curry and rice suited fine. It seemed strange to be ordering a Guinness Extra Cold when I was rugged up in my scarf, but I know I like that.

Val phoned to finalise plans for meeting tomorrow at Glenkindie for the First Scottish Pifflefest - could be the First Scottish Soggy Pifflefest at this rate.

I am collecting bits of Scotland in the car. I have pieces of heather from various places and now some bright red rowan berries which are really pretty. There is probably a law against picking them and there is definitely a law against taking them home to Australia but I'm enjoying them for the moment.

I checked out the Castle here but it is another of those Victorian Castles - built around the 1850s.

Now I've found my way back to the B&B and am listening to some Penguin Café Orchestra while drinking a wee dram of Glendronach in my etched Culloden glass.

31 August

Wow! What a busy day to write up! It is now around 1.30am of the next morning and I'm about to go to sleep but feel I should attempt to put today down beforehand as I might not remember it all in the morning.

I was awake early and stayed snoozing in bed reading more of 'Moving Toy Shop' before getting up - great book, I'm really getting into it now.

Left Inverness about 8.30am on the drive to Glenkindie where I planned to meet Piffler Val/Still Centre. I went first to Aviemore to see the town but it was still asleep at that hour and not much happening. Then up over the mountains but on the way I say a signpost advertising 'Glenlivet' so had to detour along a very pretty road to the distillery to see what I could find. Oh yes, they sell whisky there, I'll have one of those, please!

The neighbours and relatives in town will be talking about it for weeks.

We wandered off to Kildrummy Castle, a must on my list of things to see in Scotland due to it's Bruce Family connections. And it was a great ruin to visit, much bigger than many I have seen. For those who've read Barbara Erskine's 'Kingdom of Shadows' Kildrummy was one of the castles owned by the Earls of Mar. It is also famous for being the place where Sir Neil Bruce and others were betrayed by Osborne the Goldsmith whose reward of gold was melted down and poured down his throat.

We returned to Val's parent's house and had a quick lunch, haggis and vegetable soup, followed by Shepherd's chatting all the while.

Then Val's Mum and Dad arrived back from shopping and I refrained from upsetting their Scottish sensibilities and didn't hug.

Val's Mother is a guide at Craigievar Castle and had very kindly arranged for free entry passes for us and of course she came too and gave us the guided tour, including all the bits the visitors don't usually get. And there were ghost stories included! Val and I both showed considerable interest in the old books on display including a series of Penny Magazines from the 1830s.

After taking some photos, we proceeded to head back to Glenkindie where we were waiting for Val's friend Lynda to arrive.

Then Val, Lynda and I set off for Lynda's place in Banchory where we were staying overnight. I had to stop on the way to photograph the sunset which confused Lynda who was in a second car - tourists do that sort of thing.

When we arrived at Lynda's it was obvious that we needed to go down to the pub 'cos it was Saturday night. J A couple of pints later it was time to go home to Colin and Lynda's so we could check out Pifflechat with a couple of Glenlivets. Now it' s time for sleep again.

1 September

Next morning I woke up pretty early as did Val, but Lynda and Colin looked set for a sleep-in so Val and I headed off to check out the beautiful Aberdeen in bright sunshine (yes, that is not a typo!).

The city was easily found and after cruising down Union Street Val directed me to the Aberdeen University Campus where we parked and checked out the very pretty sandstone and granite buildings. Then we wandered down to look at the beach which has real sand though not quite as white as we have at home.

A drive along the River Dee took us back to the road to Banchory where a text message from Lynda advised that breakfast was cooking. After a welcome plateful of bacon, eggs, sausages and toast, it was time for me to leave again. A very successful piffleceilidh and I highly recommend any pifflers heading to Scotland to contact Val for a great time.

Mark and Sarah had told me how awful the road around Braemar and Balmoral Castle was when they drove it a couple of weeks ago and were surrounded by mist. I was a bit apprehensive but had also been told it was a lovely scenic route so I headed that way. On a sunny Sunday afternoon it was a delightful drive up and through the Grampians, past ski resorts and will lots of winding mountain roads. I can see how it would not be fun in poor visibility though.

Moot or Boot Hill is still there: the site where the ground is raised from all the Scottish Earls tipping out their boots of soil. If I recall correctly, the legend has it that each Earl would swear his oath to the King while standing on his own soil i.e. with his shoes full of it, then tip it out.

It was getting towards evening when I arrived in Perth. It was a bit strange seeing signs for Perth Methodist Church when I wasn't anywhere near home. I had a quick wander around the city and found a tourist information office to help me to find a B&B. Their 1 pound fee is the best money I have ever spent as they directed me to the most fabulous B&B in a tiny village called Forgandenny that I never would have found myself.

If anyone is ever in the vicinity of Perth, Scotland look for Battledown B&B - ian@battledown34.freeserve.co.uk should find the excellent owners. They have the nicest hot shower in the whole of Scotland and a pet rabbit as well!

2 September

Another sunny day, how can this be? A lovely breakfast made special with fresh raspberries!!!! My favourite fruit that we rarely get in my Perth as they can't be grown there.

Also I had another try of black pudding, this one much nicer - not so spicy.

A half hour drive brought me to Stirling and its historical Castle and Old Town. The castle was very spectacular on its rocktop mount. One fascinating item on display that I wasn't expecting was a team of weavers who are recreating the series of eleven Unicorn Tapestries that were once in Stirling Castle. They are only partway through the first one but it looks quite amazing. And will be huge when they are finished.

Just around the corner virtually is the site of the Battle of Bannockburn, the site of Robert the Bruce's defeat of the English in 1314.

Not a lot to see but the heritage centre has some interesting displays including a replica of the Declaration of Arbroath, one of my favourite medieval documents. It was very interesting to see how the signatures and seals were appended like a fringe: each on a separate strip.

The motorway into Edinburgh was no problem and I found my way easily, but slowly, across town to Portobello where I was booked into a B&B on the seaside. And yes, there is sea and sand here. The sand looks a bit grubby as it is brown, but I'm sure it is supposed to be like that.

It was such a lovely afternoon that I decided to drive out to Tantallon Castle leaving looking around the city until tomorrow.

Tantallon was the home of the Red Douglas family around the late 15th and early 16th centuries. It features strongly in my favourite Nigel Tranter pair about Mary Stewart the sister of James III: 'Price of a Princess' and 'Lord in Waiting'.

The second of those books has a section in it where the young James IV to be, visits Tantallon and is thrilled by the cliffs and Bass Rock guarding the entry to the Firth of Forth. A few months back I found an internet site where you can view the castle and coastline from a camera which is set up to do a 360 degree circle. It looked great on the computer but was even better in real life.